Product category:
Structural Fixings and Fasteners
News Release from: Fischer Fixings UK | Subject: Fixing into plasterboard
Edited by the Buildingtalk Editorial
Team on 03 August 2007
Fixing into plasterboard - resolving the
problems
Mirka Valovicova, technical manager at fischer fixings UK, considers the problems caused when trying to fix into this commonplace but problematic building material.
The frequent use of plasterboard for dry lining applications, partitions and ceilings is one of the most notable features of the UK market The versatility, ease of installation and economy of plasterboard make it a popular choice with builders, especially for domestic applications
This article was originally published on Buildingtalk on 7 Jun 2007 at 8.00am (UK)
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However the builder's choice is often the plumber's nightmare.
How do you fix heavy sanitary ware items to such a relatively thin and weak substrate?.
At present there are only two satisfactory solutions for this problem.
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One is the installation of battens or noggins, to which washbasins, toilet cisterns and the like can be fixed directly through the plasterboard.
The other solution is the incorporation of a specialist metal frame into the wall.
These are being developed in Europe principally to aid the installation of wall-hung sanitary ware, and they are likely to be seen increasingly in the UK, where wall-hung techniques are still at an embryonic stage.
This area is one of the most exciting developments currently taking place in sanitary fixing, because it allows for the adoption of the latest consumer fashions in sanitary ware.
Use of the appropriate fixing kits will allow the UK also, with its preference for plasterboard to enjoy the benefits of these new fashions.
If, however, it is required to fix back lighter items such as pipework, mirrors, light switches, shelving, floor-supported radiators and small wall-mounted cupboards, then it is perfectly possible to fix directly into the plasterboard.
There is a wide range of different fixings available, and generally speaking a purpose-designed plasterboard fixing should be used.
These vary in type, and the correct selection is based on board thickness, cavity depth, loading required, thickness of the fixture, ease of installation and whether demountability is required.
The strongest fixings for use in plasterboard are spring and gravity toggle anchors, which can also be used in hollow block or any other type of cavity situation.
They derive their strength from the broad splay of the toggle within the cavity, helping to spread the loading on the plasterboard.
The drawback with these types of fixings is that they require a relatively large drill hole to accommodate the size of the toggle, they need to be assembled to the fixture prior to installation and if the screw is withdrawn, the toggle falls down within the cavity.
For heavier applications where demountability is not required, these are definitely worth considering.
The steel expanding "umbrella" type of fixing is almost as strong, limited only by the fact that it doesn't grip as large an area of the board as the toggle type.
It also has the advantage that it can be placed in the drill hole before offering up the fixture, making installation that much easier, and it can also be demounted without losing the fixing in the cavity.
Self-drilling fixings are probably the easiest to install.
These cut their own hole and the resultant thread grips the board.
These are available either in metal or nylon and come with plasterboard screws of various types.
Apart from ease of installation, the main appeal of these types of fixings is the limited cavity space which is required.
They are therefore particularly suitable for drylining applications where cavity space can be at a premium.
They can be used for lighter applications, such as fixing lamps, switches and cable clamps.
Of course when installing these into tiled surface, the tiles would have to be removed around the hole so that self-drilling fixing can be inserted directly to the plasterboard.
Also worth considering is the new generation of specialist nylon plasterboard fixings, such as the fischer PD.
These are technically-sophisticated fixings which are designed to form-lock within the plasterboard substrate.
Due to their sophisticated design, including built-in flange and guide ribs to prevent turning, they offer higher weight-loadings than the self-drilling type, while also sharing their space-saving nature.
These types of fixings can be used for all the same types of application as self-drilling fixings, but can additionally be used for higher load applications, such as fixing coat hooks or smaller wall cupboards.
Despite the focus on specialist plasterboard fixings, there are nonetheless certain universal nylon fixings which, due to their design, are suitable for use in almost any materials including plasterboard.
This can be a great benefit for general builders who might find it difficult to predict the type of substrate they would have to fix into.
Universal nylon fixings need to be of the type that 'knot-form' in the cavity and which have twist-stops to prevent turning in even loose materials.
Because of the nature of the material, those types of fixings which provide maximum feedback to the installer are best-suited.
The fischer UX is a good example.
Even though these are not specialist plasterboard fixings, they still offer quite impressive performance and can be used as an alternative to the PD for many applications.
Remember: any fixing is only as good as its drill hole! Use wood drill bits, HSS steel bits or rotary-only masonry bits, with a rotary-only drilling action.
Don't use a screwdriver to force a hole in the plasterboard, as this will most likely damage the surface of the substrate and make it impossible to obtain a secure fix, whichever fixing product is used.
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